Photos and Journal of Toledo

Afterward we attended a free jazz concert in the standing room only plaza situated between the cathedral and city hall -- Plaza del Ayuntamiento. The Randy Greer Quintet performed. As we listened James joined us sipping a beer. Judy (James’s wife) was back at the hotel tuckered out.

Our very pretty and devout guide led us through the cathedral where we viewed the paintings by El Greco of the twelve apostles. The models according to the guide were sufferers recruited from the local insane asylum.

Our hotel was on Calle Isabel.

Afterward we walked down to the old synagogue and then to the church Santo Tomé, which features the painting by El Greco, The Burial of Count Orgaz. It is one of my favorites by the man whose actual name was Doménikos Theotokópoulos. Anyway, an article on Wikipedia states, According to the legend, at the time he [Count Orgaz] was buried, Saint Stephen and Saint Augustine descended in person from the heavens and buried him by their own hands in front of the dazzled eyes of those present. In other words the painting depicts a miracle. It is powerful and excellent. In the painting is a self-portrait of the artist depicting himself staring out from the canvas.

Visiting The Synagogue

Cathedral of Toledo

Our Guide in Toledo

We were on our own for lunch and I managed to get us lost. Toledo is designed so that invaders would get lost in its streets.

I assumed the cathedral was square which was a big misjudgment and finally after over an hour of wandering about we sat down at a nice place outdoors but were never waited on. Annie became impatient and we wandered around more until we stumbled into a modern restaurant – Adolfo Vinoteca -- and had delicious tuna salads. It was a boost we needed.

View From One Of The Many Sides Of The Cathedral

Afterward we were able to go shopping especially for damascene worked earrings, bracelets and necklaces as well as a dagger.

Shopping For Damascene Jewelry

Another View Of Toledo

From there we meandered back down to the synagogue because I believed there was a nearby museum displaying A View of Toledo, a painting that is among my favorites but which actually hangs in the Metropolitan Museum in New York. It is not to be found in Toledo. In Toledo one can see the View and Plan of Toledo, which is the painting we found. It is not the same even though it is by El Greco. It is not nearly the same. It is not the one with the storm. The search for the one with the storm reminds me of my assumption that The David could be found inside City Hall in Florence.

Back at the hotel we ran into Tom and Judy. The four of us decided to dine together at Restaurante Placido. I insisted on taking a shortcut so we got lost. Eventually we ran into a remarkable young woman who was leaving her home, smoking a cigarette and walking her a little white nervous dog. This flamboyant young woman spoke excellent English. She told us that she was in Toledo working on a Ph.D. in medieval history. She cheerfully led us to Calle Tome, which is the street where our restaurant was located. We sat outside while we dined and enjoyed a tasty and satisfying meal.